L - R : Thierry Wasser, Jean-Paul Guerlain and Jo Fairley

In 1989 the famous fragrance house, Guerlain, was instrumental in bringing The Jasmine Awards to the UK from Paris, and Jasmine’s very first Chairman was Julian Greenaway of Guerlain UK. In the House’s 180th year, Guerlain again supported The Jasmine Awards in providing a very special treat for beauty press when, on 21st October 2008, the head of the House of Guerlain, Jean-Paul Guerlain, spoke of his life as one of the world’s leading perfumers in an hour long interview with Josephine Fairley in the Orchid Room of the Dorchester hotel.

During the interview the House’s new perfumer, Thierry Wasser, was also introduced to the audience and appeared a worthy successor to Monsieur Guerlain, who endearingly referred to Wasser as “mon fils adoptif”.

Jean-Paul Guerlain’s career was launched when he was taken under the wing of his grandfather, Jacques Guerlain, in 1955. Under his guidance, Jean-Paul learned not just how to create wonderful perfumes but also how to source the finest raw materials. Whilst still only 17 years old, Jean-Paul Guerlain created his first fragrance, Vétiver, still in production today and still worn by its creator.

Jo Fairley posed a wide range of questions to both perfumers, many submitted by the beauty journalists in the audience. In response to the question “Which fragrance creation holds the most special memory for you?” Jean-Paul said it was the creation of Samsara for his wife, adding that the best perfumes are made for those you love. Monsieur Guerlain delighted the audience when he reflected that perfume is the only thing left when a woman’s clothes come off, adding that perfume can make even an ugly woman beautiful when the lights are out!

L-R : Guy de Beaugrenier, MD Guerlain, Stephane Euzen, UK Marketing Director Guerlain, Steven Hyams, Sales Director Guerlain, Richard Hawkins, Director Education and Development Guerlain, David Walker-Smith, Head of Beauty Selfridges, Liz Garrett, MD Coty Prestige and Chairman Jasmine Awards, Jayne Demuro, Merchandising Manager Beauty, Selfridges.

Turning to Thierry Wasser, the audience learned that he joined fragrance creators Givaudan, Paris, in 1981, becoming a Fine Fragrance Perfumer in 1989. In 1993 he joined the privately-owned Swiss company Firmenich, where a nine year period in New York saw him create some of the world’s most successful perfumes, Dior ‘Addict’ being just one example. He is delighted to be now at the House of Guerlain, where, as the first non-family perfumer in the house’s history, he enjoys a remarkable relationship with the family.

For Guerlain he has created Quand vient la pluie, Iris Ganache and most recently Guerlain Homme, which he himself wears. Commenting that the appeal of Guerlain is that it is primarily a fragrance house and brand, unusually not linked to fashion, Wasser went on to say that modern perfumery is so driven by marketing that it is in danger of losing its ‘soul’. He feels privileged that his creative work no longer originates from the dictats of a marketing brief - in his view the reverse way of creating a fragrance. Jean-Paul added his own regrets that where people might once have gone to the boutique of a perfumer such as Guerlain and come away with something they love because of its appeal to their senses, too often today this decision is influenced solely by the images projected by magazine advertisements.

Both perfumers admitted that wherever they are there is always a blotter in the pocket and that the creative juices are working whatever they are doing. But Jean-Paul Guerlain is now able to spend more time on his island of Mayotte near Madagascar, where he owns a ylang-ylang plantation, as well as pursuing his equestrian interests and his love of cooking secure in the knowledge that Thierry Wasser is safeguarding the House of Guerlain’s exceptional reputation as master perfumers.